You'll never fall into the tourist traps when you travel with Frommer's. It's like having a friend show you around, taking you to the places locals like best. Our expert authors have already gone everywhere you might go— they've done the legwork for you, and they're not afraid to tell it like it is, saving you time and money. No other series offers candid reviews of so many hotels and restaurants in all price ranges. Every Frommer's Travel Guide is up-to-date, with exact prices for everything, dozens of color maps, and exciting coverage of sports, shopping, and nightlife. You'd be lost without us! Completely updated every year (unlike most of the competition), Frommer's Alaska features gorgeous color photos of the spectacular scenery and amazing wildlife that await you in America's last frontier. This extraordinary and detailed guide is personally researched by a lifelong resident, who offers insights into how to discover the real Alaska. You'll find complete details on whale watching, sea kayaking, hiking, salmon fishing, funky small towns, Gold Rush saloons, glaciers, scenic drives, and more. You'll even get an up-to-date cruise planner, a free color fold-out map, and an online directory that makes trip-planning a snap. Frommer's Alaska 2004......Page 1 Frommer's Alaska 2004......Page 2 Copyright......Page 3 Contents......Page 4 List of Maps......Page 7 What¡ ̄s New in Alaska......Page 10 1 The Best Views......Page 14 2 The Best Alaska Cruises......Page 17 4 The Most Beautiful Drives & Train Rides......Page 18 5 The Best Fishing......Page 19 7 The Best Bear Viewing......Page 20 9 The Best Encounters with Native Culture......Page 21 11 The Best Winter Destinations......Page 22 13 The Best Hotels......Page 23 14 The Best Bed & Breakfasts......Page 24 15 The Best Websites......Page 25 1 The Regions in Brief......Page 26 2 Visitor Information......Page 28 3 Money......Page 29 4 When to Go......Page 31 5 Travel Insurance......Page 38 6 Health & Safety......Page 39 7 Escorted Tour or Do- It- Yourself Independent Travel?......Page 44 8 Planning an Outdoor Vacation......Page 48 9 Specialized Travel Resources......Page 55 10 Getting There & Getting Around......Page 57 11 Suggested Itineraries......Page 60 1 Preparing for Your Trip......Page 65 2 Getting to the United States......Page 70 1 Weighing Your Cruise Options......Page 74 2 The Best Cruise Experiences in Alaska......Page 77 3 Booking Your Cruise......Page 79 4 The Small- Ship Cruise Lines......Page 83 5 The Big- Ship Cruise Lines......Page 88 5. Southeast Alaska......Page 95 1 Exploring Southeast Alaska......Page 96 2 Ketchikan: On the Waterfront......Page 103 3 Misty Fjords National Monument......Page 116 4 Wrangell......Page 118 5 Petersburg: Unvarnished Threshold to the Outdoors......Page 127 6 Sitka: Rich Prize of Russian Conquest......Page 137 7 Juneau: Forest Capital......Page 151 8 Glacier Bay National Park......Page 177 9 Gustavus: Country Inns & Quiet......Page 182 10 Haines: Eagles & the Unexpected......Page 186 11 Skagway: After the Gold Rush......Page 194 6. Anchorage & Environs......Page 204 1 Essentials......Page 208 2 Where to Stay......Page 212 3 Where to Dine......Page 219 4 What to See & Do......Page 224 5 Getting Outside......Page 233 6 Shopping......Page 240 7 Anchorage Nightlife......Page 241 8 Out from Anchorage: Turnagain Arm & Portage Glacier......Page 243 9 Out from Anchorage: Girdwood & Mount Alyeska......Page 247 10 Out from Anchorage: The Matanuska & Susitna Valleys......Page 250 7. The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound......Page 253 1 Exploring the Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound......Page 255 2 The Seward Highway: A Road Guide......Page 257 3 Chugach National Forest: Do- It- Yourself Wilderness......Page 260 4 Whittier: Dock on the Sound......Page 265 5 Seward: Gateway to Resurrection Bay & Kenai Fjords......Page 269 6 Kenai Fjords National Park......Page 278 7 Cooper Landing: Road Meets River......Page 284 8 Kenai/ Soldotna & Sterling: Giant Salmon......Page 286 9 Kenai National Wildlife Refuge......Page 293 10 Homer: Cosmic Hamlet by the Sea......Page 295 11 Halibut Cove: Venice on Kachemak Bay......Page 311 12 Valdez......Page 313 13 Cordova: Hidden Treasure......Page 321 8. The Denali National Park Region......Page 329 1 Planning a Visit to the Park......Page 331 2 Park Essentials......Page 336 3 Denali by Shuttle Bus......Page 341 4 Denali on Foot: Day Hiking & Backpacking......Page 347 5 Activities Within the Park......Page 349 6 Attractions & Activities Outside the Park......Page 350 7 Where to Stay......Page 353 8 Where to Dine......Page 358 10 Talkeetna: Back Door to Denali......Page 360 11 Denali Wilderness Lodges......Page 364 9. The Alaskan Interior......Page 367 1 Exploring the Interior......Page 368 2 Fairbanks: Alaska Heartland......Page 371 3 Chena Hot Springs Road......Page 391 4 The Dalton Highway......Page 395 5 The Alaska Highway......Page 398 6 The Glenn Highway......Page 404 7 Copper Center & the Richardson Highway......Page 406 8 Wrangell ̈C St. Elias National Park & Kennecott......Page 407 10. The Bush......Page 415 1 Exploring the Bush......Page 416 2 Kodiak: Wild Island......Page 418 3 Katmai National Park......Page 424 4 Unalaska/ Dutch Harbor: Aleutian Boomtown......Page 427 5 The Pribilof Islands: Birder¡ ̄s Paradise......Page 431 6 Nome: Arctic Frontier Town......Page 432 7 Kotzebue: Big Village......Page 437 8 Barrow: Way North......Page 441 9 Prudhoe Bay: Arctic Industry......Page 445 Appendix: Alaska in Depth......Page 447 1 Natural History: Rough Drafts & Erasures......Page 448 2 Politics & History: Living a Frontier Myth......Page 454 3 The People: Three Ways to Win an Argument in Alaska......Page 458 Index......Page 465 Experience a place the way the locals do. Enjoy the best it has to offer. And avoid tourist traps. At Frommer's, we use 150 outspoken travel experts around the world to help you make the right choices. Frommer's. Your guide to a world of travel experience. Choose the Only Guide That Gives You: Outspoken opinions on what's worth your time and what's not. Exact prices, so you can plan the perfect trip no matter what your budget. Off-the-beaten-path experiences and undiscovered gems, plus new takes on top attractions. The best hotels and restaurants in every price range, with candid reviews. The expert guidance you need to take charge and travel with confidence. Great trips begin at frommers.com Book flights, hotels, and rental cars. Get free updates on attractions and prices